Montmartre

I went back up to Sacre Coeur (where I was alarmed to find the Eiffel Tower under wraps -- no doubt thanks to the impending Olympic Games) and then made my way to the Musee Montmartre. In addition to housing a small but wonderful collection of art by famous local artists, it depicts the history of Montmartre, which was originally a quarry and working-class neighborhood. In the 19th century it was bulldozed and gentrified -- including the construction of Sacre Coeur, which to many locals at the time was an abomination!

The museum also contains a lovely, peaceful garden, and the last existing vineyard in Paris.

These were the silhouettes used for projections at the Chat Noir, a local cabaret.

Around Montmartre, which is always crawling with tourists, there were plenty of police -- evidently Paris has dramatically stepped up its police presence for the Olympics, bringing in gendarmes from all over the country. They travel in groups, and most of them looked like they were having a lovely time.

On the walk down, I discovered a gluten-free bakery run by these two charming gentlemen.

They told me that they have repeat customers from overseas, who order ahead of time and come directly to the bakery from the airport to pick up their order. I believe it! While wheat in Europe is less hybridized and less glutinous than in the US (I am indulging, heavily), it's great to know that there are places like this for folks who are truly unable to eat it.

I also met a woman walking up the hill wearing the most fabulous green shoes. I stopped her and asked her where she'd gotten them, and she said they were from Souliers Sylvia -- a store I'd identified online and hoped to find in person -- and that she'd bought them years ago. I will definitely have to try to find this store!